My brother and I are walking down the muddy road in Linaca, Honduras that cuts between two steep hills near Danlí. We are only a few miles from the Nicaraguan border where Contra Rebels set up training camps in their fight against the Sandinistas in the ’80’s. It’s damp and colder than you would expect a Honduran morning to be. But it is January 1, and we are 2,600+ feet above sea level. It’s quite a change after spending last week on the sweltering North coast. We pass some coffee beans spread out to dry on a concrete pad. They are grown on the other side of the hill. Then we come to a farm-house and stop in front of it. The red sacks stacked on the front porch catch my eye.
A young man rides up in front of us, greets us and ties his horse to the fence post. Then a call comes from the front porch inviting us over. It’s the owner. As we walk up to greet him, he has his daughters grab some gray, plastic chairs from the kitchen and invites us to sit with him. Then he sends one of the boys up the road to get some Pepsi. “And hurry!”, he says. We ask about the red sacks. They are full of beans they grew on their farm. There must be a couple thousand pounds. They also grow corn. “You’re staying with Don Pedro, yes?”, he asks. Don Pedro is the 84-year-old patriarch of the family with whom we are staying. The news of us being here has gotten around. He says, “Don Pedro is a good man.”
One of the daughters comes out with a pan of liquid with a blob of white material in it. They explain it is cuajada, a mild flavored, soft milk curd. A powder is added to cause the milk to form a solid and separate from the whey. She continues to work with it until it forms into a ball. Then she gently squeezes more of the whey out until it has the consistency of flan and can be sliced.
We are each given a generous portion to sample along with warm corn tortillas. I am surprised at how good it is. It looks like the white homemade cheese served throughout the country with almost every meal. The cheese I am not crazy about. It is strong and is too salty for my taste. But this is very mild and very soft.
As we thank them for the cuajada and the hospitality, the farmer promises he will send some fresh milk up to the house for us tomorrow morning. It’s great to have good neighbors.